Some thoughts on Belize

>My beau and I are looking forward to going to Belize. He dives, I snorkel. Your wife suggested we speak with you. I think we’ll stay either at Belizean Shores (looks great, proven place) or if you have another recommendation, please let me know. Also, Paul asked if you were familiar with the “all inclusive packages?” We’ll probably use my travel agent to book.

Belizean Shores is great. We love it and can vouch that you will too.

You have figured out 90% of what you need to work on. The rest is pretty easy.

I find Belize to be extremely relaxing. As such, I do not like to plan every second of every day. Instead, I like to take life as it comes to me. There are no advantages to booking your day trips in advance as they are more expensive when purchased abroad and your schedule can not change to fit your mood.

You can plan your next dive anytime before 3pm or so the day before. Some longer trips (Blue Hole) should be discussed when you get there to make sure a boat is going the day you are ready (you can’t dive the day you arrive anyway). While I think the Blue Hole is totally worth it (all day, 3 dives, $350), I have gone once and prob will not go again. I signed up for another 3 tank dive last time I was in Belize off Turneffe where we did a wall dive (drop down, let the current take you) and two fantastic shallower traditional ones.

All the dive shops know each other. All offer similar prices. All claim they are the best and the others are dangerous. Whatever. To become a dive master in Belize you have to be extremely good. No one will take you out that is not totally qualified. There is nothing to worry about.

Most “real” divers bring their own suits/fins/masks. Some even bring their rig (if they are super technical or have had a bad experience). I bring nothing. Why bother? I am on vacation! Renting is cheap. If you ask, the company will give you the same gear every day if you dive with them multiple times. (I recently bought a mask to correct my vision. I bring that.)

Belize is very, very easy. No one is trying to get you to do something you do not want to do. If you find something you like, they can make more of the same happen. Everyone talks to everyone. And everyone speaks English!

My wife can tell you that the whole day Manatee Tour is our family favorite. You don’t get to scuba, but you do get to snorkel off a tiny picturesque island and swim with sharks. It is a great way to see some of the cayes and spend a romantic day. It is a lot of boat riding, but we think it is worth it.

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Belize currency is $2B -> $1US. (ie: a $3 rum and Coke is $1.50 – yes, it’s true). Most tourist stuff is quoted in $US. All dives and rentals are. You can rent a golf cart for ~$350 for the week. We have done it many times. We have not done is most times. The times we have not have been different… but not worse. If you really, simply MUST be in town when you want to be in town, then you should rent. Otherwise, save the hassle and take the boat taxi (called the Island Ferry) that leaves every other hour (at night every hour).

You will want to visit town (San Pedro) once, maybe twice. That’s it. You will not want to be there every day. You certainly will not want to be there every night. Having been to Belize a dozen times or more, I find San Pedro to be a very cool place with lots of nice folks. You will find it full of tourists on the one hand and not very “authentic” on the other. I know of no one who wishes they had spent more time in town or feel cheated that they did not see enough of it. Font Street (where all the tourist stuff is) is fine and can be quiet ‘exciting’. Second street drops right into the “Third World”. You will find no reason to explore anything else.

That being said, San Pedro is safe. It really is. No one but belligerent drunks ever have problems. Lots of my friends have spend the night on the street and none of them have had any “bad stories” to tell. You do not need to worry about pick pockets, thieves or anything else untoward.

There is a bridge that is always open over the channel of water that cuts San Pedro off from the north part of the island. Bikes cost $5B to enter San Pedro (ie: you pay one way). Carts $10B or $20B. The road from San Pedro north is terrible. If you walk it, you will do so once an never again. The beach is wonderful and many, many people walk/bike to town on the beach. Belizean Shores is 4 miles north of town and you can leisurely walk it in about two hours – including stops at the bars and to check out the other resorts along the way 😉

Carts can >>ONLY<< go on the road. This is the #1 reason I do not recommend folks get a golf cart. The road is fun for about 3 minutes and then you just start wondering why anyone with a multi-million dollar piece of property would let a road like this fester behind it. It boggles the mind. And let me stress again, the road is completely safe. It is hard to drive, but there is nothing scary about it. ---- Oh yeah, When you arrive in Belize you will be on the mainland. You will then pass customs and be in the "main terminal" of the airport. This terminal consists of one long counter with maybe 10 places for people to help you. You will want to walk up to the first one (Tropic Air) and book a flight to Amerbgris Caye. Round trip is $120US per person. The folks at Belizean Shores can do this in advance for you, but you will still need to bring your bags to Trop Air to load on the plane.

Everyone at the counter is super-dooper nice. This is not the USA. These folks are pleasant. You will feel like you have truly arrived. I like to tip the guy who actually takes my bag $5 US. Not required, but it makes me feel good and they share the tips around so… The little puddle jumper they put you on holds between 3 and 20 people. The 15 minute flight to the island is a wonderful experience. Make sure your camera is handy.

Leaving Belize is a bit more of a hassle. Most flights do not include the $40US(?) exit fee that you MUST PAY IN CASH. If you are lucky (we fly TACA and they include it), you will not have to pay. But if you do have to pay, it is a major pain because there is a single ATM and the fee to use it is $8US. That, and if you are running late, it can add to your stress. I like to walk over to the exit counter when I first arrive in Belize, show them my ticket and ask them if the fee has been paid. You can ask the folks at Tropic Air to help you with this (another reason for the tip 😉 It may save you grief at the end of a fantastic stay.

Someone from Belizean Shores will be at the tiny (you will laugh at how small it is) San Pedro Airport. If no one is there, walk into the air-conditioned terminal and ask them to call Belizean Shores. You can leave your bags outside – they are safe – or bring them in with you if it makes you feel more comfortable. The boat ride from the airport to the resort is about 30 minutes (yes, the road is so bad everyone takes a boat even to go 4 miles).

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If you drink, you will love Belize. Rum is cheap. Expensive drinks at the swim-up-to-the-bar in the resort cost $8US.

That being said, the resorts are owned by expats and they know what tourists are used to paying. You can easily spend $100US on a meal in town. You will almost surely spend that at on a nice dinner in a resort. There are some really nice restaurants on the island (none of them would be notable in the Bay Area but the atmosphere can’t be beat!) We bring food so we can make half our dinners in our room. We especially like to make breakfast and lunch in our room.

In any case, anything you buy that is for tourists (except alcohol) will be the same price (or more) as in the USA. If you eat where the locals do (Second Street) and drink what the local drink (Belikan Beer and rum) you will spend a tiny fraction. It all depends on what kind of trip you are looking for.

Before heading up to the resort, we normally stop by the supermarket that is 2 blocks south from the airport. If the folks at your resort are VERY nice, they will let you visit the supermarket before you get in the boat north. [There is only one road from the airport, just head south two blocks.] We know the folks at the supermarket in the north of town and will get an order sent up to our room via the island ferry. Not sure if you can do this or if we have special privileges.

If Belizean Shores will let you (and you arrive before noon), stop by Estelle’s for breakfast before you head up to the resort. [You can ask your resort to grab your bags a the airport and then meet you at Estelle’s in an hour and a half after your meal. This will give you time to go to the supermarket and grab a nice breakfast. Estelle’s is on the beach 2 blocks north of the airport.] The family who owns the place are good friends of ours and they make wonderful, very simple, breakfasts (eggs, fry jacks and grits are our favorites) and always have very smooth blues playing. My son gets a banana smoothie. My wife grabs a beer. I get a strawberry Daiquiri. You will be sitting in the sand, looking out at the beach… enjoying life.

Yes… Belize is all that. You will return. Everyone wants to.

If you want to read more, Taco Girl has a blog that may be worth checking out before you go.

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